Lubbers Quarters Cay, Abaco, Bahamas
The 2004 Trip Report
Note: This was our second trip to Abaco and Moonrise Cottage. Since we
had done many of the touristy things before, we concentrated on just relaxing
this trip. Therefore, this trip report is a bit "thinner" than
the last one. Also the winds were a little stronger this trip so the Sea
of Abaco was a little rougher so we didn't feel like boating as much.
We flew from BWI to West Palm Beach where we caught a small commuter
plane over to Marsh Harbor. Our taxi driver stopped off at the local grocery
store in Marsh Harbor so we could pick up the main part of our provisions
for the next week. We spent the rest of the day settling into the house
This morning we boated over to Hopetown where we enjoyed a nice lunch
at the Harborside Restaurant, visited the lighthouse where we made our
required climb to the top for the fabulous view of Hopetown Harbor, and
walked about the town. We also got a loaf of local bread from Vernon's
We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing about the house.
Today we went down to check out the ruins of Wilson City down near Sandy
Cay. I had read that Wilson City was once a major commercial center on
Abaco but was nothing but abandoned ruins now. We had a hard time getting
close to shore to anchor since the water was very shallow. The "jungle"
growth on land was very thick, dry, and rough so we couldn't wander in
too far. We walked along the shoreline a bit and checked out the ruins
of an old stone dock. We had a snack in the shade of a Casuarina tree
and then left to return back to the house. On the way back past Sandy
Cay we had to pass by an inlet that was exposed to the sea. The area was
filled with 3 to 4 foot swells. I had a "fun" time trying to
maintain my heading and keep up some speed while the swells were trying
to swamp our small boat. Once I got back in the lee of Tilloo Cay the
seas calmed down and we could relax and take our lifepreservers off.
The rest of the day we relaxed around the house.
Today we took a half-day kayaking trip with Abaco Outback. (Click
here for their website) This is a small company located in Marsh Harbor
that offers guided eco-excursions to different areas on the main island
of Abaco. We chose their half-day kayaking trip thru a remote mangrove
swamp down near Snake Cay. They transported us in comfortable van from
their Marsh Harbor office down to the put-in point They used another vehicle
to pull the trailer full of kayaks. After some brief instructions on how
to paddle a kayak, we were in the water exploring the mangrove swamps.
We stopped at one point, got out of our boats and snorkeled thru a narrow
deep channel checking out the marine life. It was there that we saw our
first nurse shark sleeping. When we got out from snorkeling, they had
a nice snack buffet waiting for us. Then it was back into the boats and
we headed back to the put-in point.
The rest of the day . . . you guessed it . . . we relaxed around the
Today we thought we'd try a new snorkeling place called Mermaid Reef
that I had heard about thru the Abaco Community Bulletin Board on the
web. It's located about 100 yds off the shoreline north of Marsh Harbor.
It's shown on the map in "The Cruising Guide to Abaco". To find
it look for a row of 3 bright multicolored small cottages low along the
shore. To the left is a house up on a terraced hill. The reef is right
in-between those two landmarks. The reef is not very deep and the fish
are used to having a lot of humans snorkeling amongst them. It was the
best location for getting up close to the fish.
That evening we boated down to Cracker P's for supper.
Today we boated down to Tilloo Bank where we explored the beach and searched
for sand dollars in the shallow water. On the way back we stopped at the
reef near the "castle" and did some snorkeling.
This morning we visited Mermaid Reef again. In the evening we celebrated
our last evening in Abaco with a real nice dinner at the Abaco Inn restaurant.
Having our last supper at the Abaco Inn has become a tradition for us.
It's nice cause it's an easy short boat ride from the house and we can
easily get back just before dark.
Our last day in paradise. We had pretty much packed-up everything the
night before so we could just sit around the house and relax before we
boated back to SeaHorse Marine in Marsh Harbor. We enjoyed a nice lunch
at Mangoes and then taxied to the airport.